23rd July - Fuje is HUGE!
Well, I did it! I climbed Mount Fuji. All 3776 metres of it and boy was it tough! At the time it felt like the WORST thing ever, but now it's over I can honestly say it is the highlight of my year in Japan and the perfect way to say goodbye.
We started at the 5th station which is already a third of the way up at about 2300m. Getting off the bus you can feel the air is thinner and it's a bit chilly too! We piled on our layers and waterproofs and set off at 9pm on the dot.
Within about 10 minutes of walking downhill, we had to strip back down to t-shirts. Already we were feeling the strain! Still, we remained positive, overtook some OAPS (who, not suprisingly, then overtook us at a later stage), chatted about horror movies and even sang a few songs.
The first aim was to get to the 6th station which according to our map was about 2 hours away. The cloud was closing in on us but it was pitch black with nothing to see but the flickering headlamps of all the other climbers. Oh yeah, the other climbers - apparently around 300,000 people climb Mount Fuji every year (with the majority of them climbing during official climbing season July and August) and because of the typhoon last weekend many people, including us, had to cancel and re-schedule for the following weekend. So it turned out, Mount Fuji was rather busy and by the time we reached the 7th station we realised that we could be climbing nose-to-bumper with all the other climbers...
...and we were! I don't think there is any other mountain in the world where you have to queue to climb to the top. Although it may sound off-putting it actually added to the whole experience as most of these climbers were Japanese people and didn't make it feel like a tourist attraction.
Kat and a sleeping climber
7th station and ready for oxygen (and not skooshi cream as it may look like!)
So, on with the hike. We reached the 8th station about 1am... about 5 hours after our departure and a little behind schedule.
8th station - already up in the clouds
Most of the climbing thus far had involved scrambling over rocks and using hands and feet. We hadn't taken into account all the stopping and starting when climbing with hundreds of other people and by about 3am we realied we might not make it to the top by sunrise. Still, it had started to get lighter by that point and we thought we could see the top from where we were. The sky was clear though and the stars were beautiful. I even saw two shooting stars!
But after we climbed up an extra steep part, we saw rows upon rows of MORE zig-zag paths emerging. The top was still a few hours away yet.
This is the point where I told Kat that there was at least another 2 hours worth of climbing...
So, when we realised we wouldn't make it to the top for sunrise, we decided to get comfy on some rocks and just wait (and have our first official rest in the 7 hours we had been climbing).
Matt, charlie and me - all feeling a bit worse for wear
Me looking like the Ghost of Christmas Past - just before sunrise.
Goose bump stuff when the sun broke through
The crowds below
The crowds to the side
When the sun broke through, all my aches and pains temporarily disappeared and I joined in with hundreds of Japanese people shouting "BANZAI! BANZAI! BANZAI!". It was really magical... until I remembered I had more climbing to do.
The last hour and a half was the worst. The end was in sight but every step was a sting. The crowds had all slowed down significantly but I found my 2nd (maybe actually my 3rd) wind and picked up the pace for the last stretch to the top. I think I may have even pushed some people out of the way... whoops! I just wanted to get there after 9 long hours of climbing.
At the top! Woooohoooo!
Proof that the Japanese can sleep anywhere... and maybe proof that you can still climb Fuji and be fashionable.
Cool wave cloud for my dad!
Matt, Charlie and me at the top!
Onwards and eh... downwards!
After some hot chocolate, cup noodles and a bit of a rest, we started the hike down. I can actually go as far as to say this was worse than the climb up because by this point our knees were about ready to give way. The path was gravel mixed with rocks and sand and with every step it was difficult to keep your balance. It took us 3 1/2 hours to get down and the last 2kms were the longest of my life! Towards the end, we stumbled across a very eerie scene of men and some horses - still not entirely convinced they were real...
So exactly 14 hours and 10 minutes after we left the 5th station on Saturday night - we arrived back again tired, uncomfortable, in pain and not feeling the love for Mount Fuji.
Kat - feeling the love for flat ground!
It has taken me a few days to be able to walk up and down stairs again but now I have fully recovered I'm ready to do it again!!! What was that famous saying again...
3 comments:
I cannot believe how many people were climbing Fuji that day!!!
The adventure continues:
http://tristaninjapan.blogspot.com/
Yes I was unoriginal and stole every idea you had.
-Tristan
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